Troubleshooting Guide Click on a problem or scroll through. faq glossary safety tips useful links contacts troubleshooting Acid Rain Clearcoat Delamination Peeling Bleeding Cracking Pinholing Blistering Crazing Rail Dust Blushing Featheredge Splitting Runs Body Filler Staining Fisheyes Sags Chalking Lifting Sandscratch Swelling Chemical Staining Metallic Mottling Solvent Popping Chipping Micro-Checking Water Spotting Checking Orange Peel Wrinkling BLEEDING New topcoat (generally light colors) shows discoloration seeping through from old finish below. Cause: Older type finish (synthetic enamel), generally reds, often contain soluble pigments which migrate into lighter new finish. Stains in old finish which may have been the result of fallout or dyes migrate into new finish. Check: See if old finish was sealed before topcoating. Prevent: If possible, avoid spraying whites or beige's over older reds or maroons, without black sealer. Correct: Apply two coats of 41K089 Black SunPrime II. BLISTERING Bubbles that appear in topcoat, often weeks after application. May be small or large in size. Cause: Insufficient dry times between coats. Check: Application of undercoats too heavy. Oil, water, or dirt in air lines. See if blisters are soft. If so, it's either solvent, moisture, or air. Determine which. Smell. Does it crack when thumbnailed? Check air filtration system. Prevent: Always allow sufficient dry times between undercoats, basecoats, clearcoats, etc. Invest in a good air filtration system. Drain air lines and compressor tank daily. Correct: If blisters are not severe, they may be sanded out, feathered and retopcoated. In severe cases, finish must be removed and job refinished. < back to top > BLUSHING A white cloudy haze that generally appears on lacquer but may occasionally affect any fast drying finish. Similar appearance may be seen on very high solids clearcoats when excessive coats are applied. Cause: Moisture becomes trapped in fast drying finish due to too fast a solvent used to reduce finish. Check: Check which solvent was used to reduce paint. Check humidity in area where problem occurred. Is the spray booth floor standing in water? Prevent: Use the next slower reducer or thinner. Avoid raising the level of humidity in spray area. Correct: Allow finish to dry. Apply additional coats with slower solvent. BODY FILLER STAINING Discolored area on lighter colored basecoat clearcoat finishes. Discoloration in areas of plastic filler. Cause: Chemical reaction between finish and plastic filler. Generally shows up after setting in sunlight. Check: Find out what type of plastic filler was used. Is the staining over "worked" areas? At what point did the stain become noticeable? Was a lacquer type primer used? Prevent: Use "stain-free" type plastic fillers. Two component undercoats may reduce frequency of occurrence. Correct: Stained areas must be prepped for refinishing. Several coats of AquaPrime 9 Series followed by topcoats. < back to top > CHALKING A dull powdered look generally on upper surfaces. Often color can be wiped off finish with rag. Cause: If on a relatively new finish: Wrong solvent was used in topcoat. Paint or undercoat materials not mixed well. Lack of sufficient millage. Excessive mist coats. Check: What solvent was used? Could finish have been washed with strong detergents prematurely? Check paint thickness. Does finish appear rough? Prevent: Always choose correct reducer or thinner. Make certain all materials including tinting colors are stirred well. Be conscience of number of coats and film thickness. Avoid excessive mist coating. Correct: Finish may be polished to remove "dead" pigment. Most permanent solution is to remove "chalked" condition by sanding. Clean and refinish. CHEMICAL STAINING, WATER SPOTTING or ACID RAIN Circular discoloration of surface. Dull spots often with outside edges darker than center. Cause: Most common cause is industrial fallout. Chemicals brought to surface of topcoat by dew or rain. Then chemical reacts with topcoat surface when exposed to sun. Check: Determine if spots or colored stains or "chalky" residue. Use polishing compound to determine severity. Is area "eating away" at finish? Industrial activity in area. Prevent: Keep vehicle washed and waxed. Use basecoat/clearcoat system when possible. Correct: Wash surface with detergent and warm water. Rewash with solution of baking soda and water, flush surface with water and dry. Rub affected area with polishing compound. If not corrected, refinish. < back to top > CHIPPING Small areas of a finish that has broken away from undercoat or substrate. Cause: Condition is usually caused by mechanical means such as impact of gravel, etc. Condition occurs more often on an unsealed finish or a finish that does not have two component undercoats. Check: Look at where chipping is occurring, front of vehicle, around wheel wells, etc. Check for obvious signs of chipping due to road conditions. Does finish have lacquer primer (sealer or surfacer) underneath? Is finish coming off of old surface, undercoat? Determine where adhesion is being lost. Prevent: Use two component undercoats. Use chip guard on areas where chipping is likely to occur. Correct: Sand affected area until finish "feathers." Clean and refinish. CHECKING / MICRO-CHECKING Fine cracks which do not penetrate the topcoat completely or consistently They are distributed over the surface, giving the semblance of a small pattern. Cause: Materials not uniformly mixed. Insufficient flash times. Topcoating over old micro-checked finish. Excessive film thickness. Check: Check film thickness. Determine if old finish may have micro-checking. (New finish magnifies old smaller checking.) Prevent: Don't pile on topcoats. Allow sufficient flash times. Look closely at old finishes before topcoating. Mix all materials uniformly. Correct: Remove finish below affected area. Finish may need to be completely removed and refinished. < back to top > CLEARCOAT DELAMINATION Loss of adhesion between clearcoat and basecoat. Cause: Insufficient flash times between coats of base. Excessive dry time for basecoat. Insufficient film thickness on clearcoat. (Failure to apply correct number of coats or too much clear removed during polishing process.) Check: Peel off section of clear; smell for solvents in basecoat. Peel off section of clear and check millage on piece of bare metal. Prevent: Always allow basecoat proper dry times. Never allow basecoat to dry beyond recommended clearcoat times. Allow each coat of base to flash completely. Always apply clearcoat to recommended film thickness. Correct: Anticipate if excessive buffing will be needed. Remove clearcoat until "feathering" is achieved. Rebase and clear. CRACKING Actual cracks or splits that penetrate at least one coat. Resembles mud cracks in a dry pond. May often form three or four-legged starts. Cause: Excessive film thickness. Several paint jobs one over the other without removal of excessive build. Plastic filler splitting under topcoat possibly due to excessive filler build. Insufficient flash times between coats. Finish applied in extreme cold temperature. Check: Check film thickness. Look for excessive primer surfacer or plastic filler. Did finish crack immediately? Prevent: Check film thickness before refinishing. Never use primer surfacer or plastic filler in excess. Never apply finishes below 50F. Correct: Completely remove old finish to bare metal and refinish. < back to top > CRAZING Small cracks or splits generally affected area will be completely checkered. May appear almost like grained vinyl. Cause: Surface being refinished is too cold. Check: Check metal temperature of panel being refinished. Prevent: Allow metal to raise above safe levels. Keep shop temperature above 50F. Correct: If crazing happens immediately, an additional wet coat may be applied with the slowest drying solvent shop conditions will allow. Allow metal temperature and shop temperature to raise to above 50F before correcting. FEATHEREDGE SPLITTING Lines or splits appearing around an area that the old finish was featheredged. Cause: Improper cleaning and preparation. Spray gun used to fan finish causing surface to skim before all solvents are evaporated. Lacquer primer surfacer sprayed too wet or insufficient flash times between coats. Materials not uniformly mixed. (Settling of primer surfacer.) Check: Did problem occur immediately? Check bottom of primer surfacer can with stir stick, even if can is on mixing bank. Watch spraying habits of painter. Check for drying wet finish with spray gun. Prevent: Practice proper cleaning procedures. Never dry wet finish by spray gun fanning. Mix materials thoroughly. Correct: Sand finish past affected area and refinish. < back to top > FISHEYES Small dimples that appear in wet paint finishes. Cause: Improper cleaning procedures. Old original finish contains silicone from use of fisheye eliminator during its application. Oil in air lines. Excessive amounts or use of fisheye eliminator. Check: How were panels cleaned? Was surface sanded before cleaning process? Check for contamination in air lines. Was fisheye eliminator used? If so, how much and what type? Prevent: Always wash areas to be refinished with water and mild detergent. Clean surfaces before sanding with was and grease remover. Wipe dry before solvent dries. Keep air lines clean and drained. If fisheye eliminator is needed, use only recommended additive in correct amounts. Correct: If in basecoat (333/337/533), allow base to flash dry 15-30 minutes, sand with 1000 grit and refinish. On single stage finishes, allow affected coat to flash. Spray additional coats with appropriate additive. LIFTING Surface lifts and/or wrinkles while being applied or during stages of drying. Cause: Aggressive solvents in new topcoat penetrate and attack old finish. Lacquer-type materials applied over non-catalyzed enamels. Trapped solvents. Recoating outside of "window." Check: At what stage did the lifting occur? Find out what undercoats/old finishes are under "lift" area. Which reducer/thinner was used? Prevent: Allow sufficient flash times between coats. Be aware of any recoat "windows." Correct: Sand finish past affected area and refinish. < back to top > METALLIC MOTTLING Streaked or spotty affect in metallics. This condition occurs when flakes are moved or pushed together. Cause: Spray gun technique inconsistent. Applying paint too wet. Spray gun out of adjustment. Wrong solvent used in material. Cold shop conditions. Check: Check to see if problem is only on horizontal surfaces. What air pressure was used? Diaphragm regulator on air source? What reducer/thinner was used? Temperature/Metal temperature? If basecoat, how long did basecoat flash before being clearcoated? Prevent: Make correct reducer/thinner/stabilizer selection. Spray with consistency - air pressure, gun distance, etc. Spray only above 50F. Also be aware of metal temperature. Correct: Allow color to flash off and apply another coat, generally a drier coat. ORANGE PEEL Excessive waviness or unevenness of paint surface. Often a rough look that resembles an orange skin. Paint droplets drying before flowing together sufficiently. Cause: Wrong solvent used to reduce paint. Improper spray gun technique. Not enough air pressure. Spray gun distance too great. Shop temperature too high. Check: Check reducer/thinner, etc. What air pressure? Watch painter's spraying technique, if possible. What fluid nozzle size was used? Prevent: Use correct solvent to thin material with respect to temperature and size of job. Use recommended air pressures and fluid nozzle size. Correct: If not too severe, once dry polishing/compounding may help. If severe, orange peel would need to be sanded smooth and refinished using slower solvent and correct air pressure. < back to top > ORANGE PEEL (IN HIGH SOLIDS CLEARCOATS) Clearcoat looks good until baked or air-dried next day. Orange peel or texture begins to show up once curing begins. Cause: Basecoat applied too dry. High solids clear not atomized properly. Check: Look "through" clear into basecoat; is it rough? What fluid nozzle size was used? Air pressure? Prevent: Apply basecoat as "slick" and even as possible. Use recommended fluid nozzle sizes. Use smallest fluid nozzle size recommended, if needed. Use recommended air pressure. Correct: In most cases, a mild polishing will correct condition. PEELING Finish coming off substrate due to loss of adhesion. (Topcoat from undercoat or old finish. Undercoat from metal.) Cause: Lack of preparation/cleaning. Insufficient undercoat dry times. Excessive undercoat dry times. On bare metals, not using etching primers or metal treatments. Sealers not stirred sufficiently. Check: Where is the loss of adhesion? If between topcoat and sealer, check sealer for settling on bottom of can. How long did undercoat dry? Any signs of sanding? Can you smell solvents when finish is peeled off? Prevent: Clean and sand properly. No shortcuts. Follow undercoat dry times. Always double check sealers for settling. Bare metal: use etching primer. Correct: Sand affected area until "feathered" and refinished. In extreme cases, finish may need to be "razorbladed" or stripped and refinished. < back to top > PINHOLING Groups of small hopes in topcoat. Cause: Moisture left in primer surfacer. Fanning of fresh paint. High solids clears not applied wet enough. Air lines contaminated. Air trapped in body filler or putty. Check: Was primer surfacer wet sanded in affected areas? Is there any fillers or putties under affected areas? Check air lines for oil, moisture, etc. Prevent: Be sure wet sanded primer surfacers are completely dry before topcoating. Never fan spray gun to "dry" paint film. Drain air lines, tank, and separators daily. Correct: Sand area until smooth and refinish. RAIL DUST Small iron particles embedded into finish of vehicle. If particles have penetrated into basecoat, rust-colored spots are generally evident. Cause: Tiny particles of iron produced by friction from railroad tracks/wheels settle on new vehicles while in transportation. Iron dust produced by steel foundries also can be a source of "rail dust." Check: Use a magnifying glass to inspect. Feel for fine bumps on horizontal surfaces. Look for basecoat staining. Prevent: Cover vehicle when potential damage is prevalent. Correct: See Technical Repair Sheet on Rail Dust Damage Repair. < back to top > RUNS and SAGS Downward movement of finish between the time of application and setting. Cause: Inconsistent spray technique. Material overreduced. Solvent used in material too slow. Excessive film thickness. Air pressure too low. Shop/metal temperatures too low. Check: Check solvent used in material. What air pressure? Spray technique? Prevent: Use correct solvent for reduction. Use recommended air pressure. Spray only above 50F. Use correct reduction ratio. Correct: If not too severe, affected area may be color sanded and polished. If severe, block sand and refinish. SANDSCRATCH SWELLING Sand scratches become enlarged and show through topcoat. Cause: Wrong solvent used to clean surface after sanding. Grit of sandpaper too coarse. Improper undercoat procedures. Primer sealer not used. Wrong solvent used in topcoat/undercoat. Check: What solvent was used to clean surface after sanding? Was the sandpaper grit size too large or did solvent swell scratches? What solvent was used to reduce undercoat/topcoat? Prevent: Use recommended sandpaper grit sizes. Do not use too fast of solvent to reduce undercoat. (May cause bridging.) Use appropriate primer sealer. Correct: Sand finish past affected area until smooth, seal, and refinish. < back to top > SOLVENT POPPING Small blisters on surface of topcoat caused by trapped solvents. Cause: Insufficient flash times between coats. Improper surface preparation. Application of topcoat/undercoat too heavy. Check: Check flash times between coats. What solvent was used to clean surface after sanding? Look for signs of excess wet coats. Prevent: Allow sufficient flash times between coats. Use recommended cleaning solvents. (Pre-sanding/Post-sanding). Correct: If not too severe, effected area may be color sanded and polished. severe, sand area smooth and refinish. WRINKLING Shriveling or rippling of topcoat. Cause: Synthetic enamel force dried without proper flash time or excessive heat. Finish applied too heavy. Skinning of top layer of finish. Check: Is it a synthetic enamel? How long between coats? Look for evidence of heavy application. Too much air flow or gun fanning could cause skinning over. Prevent: Allow proper dry times. Avoid rapid temperature changes. Don't apply finishes too heavy. Correct: Sand smooth and refinish. < back to top > Email us at info@painterssupply.net or call toll-free (800) 275-2448.